In the world of leather goods, there are specific terms that signify the leather’s grade and overall quality. To someone unfamiliar with the industry, it’s easy to see words like “genuine” and “original” and assume that simply means the product is made out of real, authentic leather. That’s technically true, but it’s not that simple.
Words like genuine and original are used as marketing terms to misrepresent the actual quality of low-grade leather. It happens all the time: someone buys a genuine leather belt thinking they got a great deal, only for the belt to end up cracking and peeling a few weeks later.
Here’s what the manufacturers are not telling you.
What Is Original Leather?
The term original doesn’t have a set definition in the context of leather goods. It’s an intentionally vague, non-specific descriptor typically used when a belt manufacturer wants to hide the fact that the leather is of poor quality.
Original leather doesn’t inherently mean the leather is low-grade, but it should immediately make you take pause. After all, if the manufacturer was using high-quality leather with a verifiable grade, why wouldn’t they say so?
What Is Genuine Leather?
Unlike original, a term that can encompass any grade of leather, the term genuine has evolved to refer to be much more specific. Genuine leather is real leather, but it’s made from the hide’s weaker layers and heavily processed.
When a manufacturer says they sell genuine leather goods, 99.9% of the time, they’re referring to finished split-grain leather. If it were a higher grade, the brand would make that clear.
It’s very common for manufacturers to boldly advertise genuine leather as a main selling point. And unfortunately, it works. The average consumer lacks a deep understanding of leather grading, so a genuine leather belt seems like a solid value compared to pricier options.
Understanding the Real Leather Grades
In order of quality:
Full-Grain Leather
Full-grain leather is the most desirable type of leather. It’s made from the topmost layer of the hide, which is the strongest, densest, and most resilient section.
Unlike low-grade leather that tends to crack and peel over time, full-grain leather ages beautifully, developing a one-of-a-kind patina that gives the belt a worn-in look. Just like a well-loved leather jacket, an aged full-grain leather belt tells a story.
Beyond its durability and longevity, full-grain leather retains the natural characteristics and “imperfections” of the hide because it’s not buffed, sanded, or heavily processed. This adds to the belt’s eye appeal and unique character.
Simply put, full-grain leather is the best of the best. A full-grain leather can easily last a lifetime and stay in the family.
Top-Grain Leather
Top-grain leather is made from the top of the animal’s hide, but it undergoes light processing to remove imperfections (usually sanding and buffing). Some people prefer top-grain leather belts because they typically have a smoother, more uniform appearance.
For example, a business professional may find that a sleek, modern top-grain leather belt pairs better with classy clothing. On the other hand, a hunter may prefer the raw, rugged outdoor style of a full-grain leather belt that retains the hide’s natural grain.
With that said, many full-grain leather belts are designed for formal wear. Some manufacturers use full-grain leather with minimal imperfections for a more polished presentation. Some even make interchangeable sliding belts in both casual and formal styles, allowing the owner to adjust their look as needed.
Corrected-Grain Leather
Like full-grain and top-grain leather, corrected-grain leather is made from the hide’s top layer. However, it undergoes heavier processing that removes natural imperfections. The processed leather is then embossed with an artificial grain pattern and coating.
Heavy processing can provide a uniform look that some people appreciate. However, the corrective treatments reduce the leather’s durability and ability to age well.
Split-Grain Leather
Split-grain leather is made from the layers of the hide below the topmost layer. These lower layers are inherently much less dense and durable.
The vast majority of genuine leather belts are actually made from split-grain leather. Most suede products are also made from split-grain leather, although high-quality suede is made by reversing the top layer.
Split-grain leather is very heavily processed, usually to mimic the natural look of higher-grade leather. However, time quickly reveals the difference, as split-grain leather ages poorly. It’s common for split-grain/genuine leather belts to crack and peel even after just a few wears.
Bonded “Leather”
Bonded leather is often referred to as the particle board of the leather world. While it contains trace amounts of real leather, it’s a composite material that’s made from the hide’s leftover scraps.
The bits and pieces are shredded into a pulp, mixed with a binding agent like latex or polyurethane, and then applied to a backing material like fiber, fabric, or even paper.
Buy Your Next Belt With Confidence
In summary, a full-grain leather belt is a solid investment. Top-grain and some corrected-grain belts are not the worst options, but full-grain leather is worth every penny. Avoid anything labeled genuine or bonded leather, and be highly skeptical of original leather.
